Tips on Mandarinfish Care

!±8± Tips on Mandarinfish Care

Mandarinfish, Synchiropus splendidus, belong to the Callionymidae or dragonet family. They are endemic to the Pacific Ocean. Their native habitat ranges from Ryukyu Islands to Australia. This bottom dwelling species is commonly found in sheltered lagoons and inshore reefs.

This is one of the most beautifully colored fish in all of nature. It color palette looks like it came straight form one of the polyester shirts popular in the 70s. A psychedelic montage of oranges, yellow and greens coalescing across a neon blue body make this fish a sure standout in any aquarium. Its vivid coloration evokes the rich color patterns and embroidered adornments on the robes of an Imperial Chinese Mandarin. This coloration makes for ideal camouflage against the brightly colored species typical of a tropical marine reef formation. They are sold under a variety of trade names including striped mandarinfish, mandarin dragnet, striped dragonet, green dragonet, mandarin goby, green mandarin, and even the psychedelic mandarinfish. One would think a species of such exotic magnificence would fetch a hefty price. In reality these are very affordable fish.

Dragonets account for 10 genera and more than 182 species of the 267 genera and 2,100 species collectively referred to as gobies. Gobies are small fish. A fully grown adult mandarin will only reach between 2.5 and 4 inches in length. This is a mild mannered creature and should not be housed with more aggressive species or fish large enough to view it as an appetizing snack. In nature they often commune in small groups. However in the confines of an aquarium two males may demonstrate territorial behavior toward one another. Keeping a male and a female together will not present a problem. This is a timid fish. Avoid having lots of other bottom dwellers in your community tank. The mandarin is more likely to starve itself to death rather than compete for its food. It will also require plenty of hiding places. This is a suitable candidate for a reef aquarium. It does consume crustaceans but they are much smaller than the ones you would purchase to populate your reef tank. Do not keep them with sea anemones as you may well wake up with one less fish in your aquarium. Mandarins secrete a toxin in their mucous that covers their bodies as a form of protection against predation. However this toxin will not affect the other members of your aquarium as long as they do not attempt to eat the mandarin.

Mandarinfish are recommended for expert aquarists only. This is specifically because of their specialized diet in nature. This omnivore's diet is largely comprised of amphipods (small shrimp-like crustaceans), copepods (planktonic sized crustaceans), Gastropoda (tiny univalve mollusks) and polychaete worms.

Mandarins will often succumb to a death of malnutrition within the first six months of captivity. Many simply cannot make the transition to life in an aquarium. It is highly recommended that you ask to watch the one you intend to purchase feed before taking it home. Providing plenty of well established live rock and living sand as a substrate will help in the acclimation process.

Despite its troubles adapting to a life of captivity, mandarins are a hardy and highly diseases resistant species. They have scale-less bodies and a skin type that is naturally immune to ichthyophthirius (ich). Mandarins who successfully acclimate to aquarium life are healthy active fish that can easily live in excess of 10 years possibly even as long as 15.

It is relatively easy to sex mandarins. Males are generally larger than females. The male's dorsal fin is more elongated and pointed than that of the females. This fish has been known to breed in captivity.

Tips on Mandarinfish Care

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Solid State, Cooler Running, High Efficiency, Dual Color Blended Full Spectrum LED plant lighting, This panel has no ballasts to burn out like other aquarium or plant lights. It runs at a warm temperature rather than very hot which is common with most other inefficient plant lights. This more controlled running temperature reduces water evaporation and keeps rooms with tanks and plants from getting uncomfortably hot in the summer months requiring additional air conditioning. They save electricity dual fold. This state of the art BLUE + WHITE LED panel tank and plant light is extremely energy efficient paying for itself many times over each year in electricity savings. It saves 50% to 90% in energy consumption compared to incandescent bulbs or fluorescent tubes. Wide angle projection insures uniform coverage. This specialty WHITE + BLUE LED Aquarium and grow light panel is designed to allow you to custom tailor the light spectrum for maximum growth and breeding condition.The purity and power of this Blue + WHITE LED panel has been scientifically designed to provide large illumination coverage of 8 to 10 square feet. 14 to 16 hours per day is all that is necessary for maximum fish metabolism and Coral Reef. The typical white (metal halide) plant lights that run at high temperatures consume excessive electricity, wasting money. LEDs turn on instantly and can be turned on and off by hand each day or work well with all standard lamp timers.These LED light panels are perfect as all year permanent Aquarium and Plant lights for Fish, Reef, Corals, Amphibians, Reptiles, Mammals, Insects and Plant tanks and benches. They are especially productive for spring vegetable and flower seedling development.Gross weight: 11 Pounds or 5kg2" depth - 1537 Par12" depth - 423 Par24" depth - 182 Par

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T5 Lighting and LED Aquarium Lights

!±8± T5 Lighting and LED Aquarium Lights

T5 aquarium lighting is usually the best solution for most saltwater aquariums that are less than twenty four inches deep. This is because it is the most affordable and best bang for the buck lighting solution if you plan to keep corals. Don't get me wrong, metal halide lighting is a great solution, but T5 can even be more intense than metal halide. When comparing T5 to power compact, there is no comparison. T5 is better hands down. Power compact is older technology and far less efficient. There are many styles of T5 fixtures available. Some can be hung, while others rest on the rim of your aquarium. The typical fixture lengths are twenty four, thirty six, forty eight, and seventy two inches long. You will also see that fixtures are available containing two to twelve bulbs. Most aquarists will need one bulb for every three inches wide your aquarium is. So a fifty five gallon aquarium is twelve inches wide and should have about four bulbs. Most T5 fixtures containing more than two bulbs will have separate plugs so you can create a dawn and dusk effect.

Thankfully there are many T5 bulb options available. You will be able to find just the right spectrum that pleases your eyes. You will find purple, blue, red, white and yellow bulbs readily available in most of the common sizes. Use a combination of these bulbs to get just the right color. Also be sure to select a fixture that has built in fans to keep the bulbs cool and one that has high quality reflectors. Look for a light that mentions polished aluminum or parabolic reflectors with ninety five percent or better reflectivity.

In the future, aquarium LED light bulbs will replace power compact, T5 and metal halide. It makes sense because LED bulbs produce the same shimmering effect as metal halide and also match the intensity. Yet, they do not produce the heat, so a chiller is no longer a concern. You will also be able to dim and adjust the color of the bulbs like some T5 and VHO lighting systems. The bulbs will also last up to ten years! In the end, LED lights make the most sense, but they are still too expensive for most aquarists. Look for prices of these LED fixtures to start coming down in the near future.

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Saltwater Aquarium Lighting

!±8± Saltwater Aquarium Lighting

The type of lighting that we will select for use in our saltwater aquarium is largely dependant upon the grouping of livestock that we will select to inhabit the tank. Regular cycles of light are commonly used to simulate day and night for fish and invertebrates. This encourages a feel of a natural environment among our livestock, cultivating the proper periods of rest and similar such circumstances that are most conducive to their successful and healthy adaptations to our aquariums.

Tanks containing only fish and live rock do not commonly require overly specific lighting techniques. However, invertebrates and the required propagation of various forms of algae that are commonly needed indeed calls for more specific and customized lighting. Choices for lighting our tanks include natural sunlight, Light Emitting Diode (LED), various forms of fluorescent bulbs, and metal halide lights.

Natural sunlight is only effective as a light source for a saltwater aquarium in geographic areas located in the vicinity of the equator. This is due to the levels of intensity of sunlight found in such areas. Such aquarist techniques involving the use of sunlight and in the vicinity of the equator are only implemented among large reef tanks. In tanks that are much more commonly found among hobbyists throughout the world, natural sunlight is avoided as a light source as it is potentially detrimental to many forms of livestock for a variety of reasons.

LED sources have a great deal of potential. The jury is somewhat still out on the extent of their practicality and effectiveness, however, so it can depend on which expert we ask as to how they will evaluate LED. One way or the other, the aquarist community would be well served to keep a watchful eye on evolving technological developments among LED light sources, as implications currently include advances in lighting schedules, simulations of lunar lighting, and even the effective simulation of cloud coverage.

Different types of fluorescent bulbs all have about the same intensity, but it is their various shapes and reflectors that result in their unique specifications. The newer fluorescents have improved reflectors, allowing more amounts of light into the aquarium than in years past. The more recently designed bulbs are a bit more costly to maintain than their predecessors, so some aquarists continue to use traditional fluorescent lighting sources.

Metal halide lights are comparable in practicality to fluorescent lighting. Many aquarists consider the primary difference to be that metal halide may be concentrated into specific areas of the tank while fluorescent light is distributed evenly. Metal halide lighting systems are usually more of a financial investment than fluorescent lights, but are required for certain reef tanks.

Overall, it will depend on the specific types of livestock that we desire to maintain as to the importance of our choice for lighting. This is of course directly related to the amount that we should be willing to invest in our lighting and the extents that we will go to achieve and maintain our optimal light conditions.

Saltwater Aquarium Lighting

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